Thursday, October 16, 2008

Day 31 - Bye bye Lao

Day 31 - If you remember what I wrote in the first few days, I mentioned Bangkok was never my favorite city. I took it back. I was so happy to be back to civilizations. So happy that I couldn't stop having a cheerful smile on my face. The smell of concrete, i missed it.

The first thing i did was to go to Ben's bed to apologize for my inappropriate behavior last night. And now, a fresh start in Bangkok. I had such different feeling about this city this time. I never had that appreciation about this city ever before. It was dirty, it was noisy and crowded. But today, i love it. I love its prosperity, I love its flexibility, I love it has everything you want.

Here was the end of my trip in Lao, Thailand here I came back to where I started. Me still being me, but now I had that wonderful story to tell people what I experienced. Lao is indeed a very beautiful country that we, all people, should cherish places like this so pure and so simple on our lonely planet.

Day 30 night - the night train to Bangkok

Still on day 30 - We were on this train back to Bangkok. I took the lower deck this time. Ben was keen to go to the food cart for a drink. So we did. There was music, there was good vibe, there were nice friendly people. We played some drinking games. Somehow I managed to get myself really drunk again. We had the Lao Lao and the Thai whisky. What an evil match.

There was the Thai undercover police sitting at the corner of the food cart. He looked pretty drunk to me. He and the staff on the train were really really friendly to everyone and everyone was having so much fun. I sat by the policeman's table, had some food and chatted with him. He was drinking that whisky. I was supposed to make him drunk thought would be more fun. But it was the other way round. He was drunk, i was beyond drunk.

It was good fun in the food cart but it was a bit nasty at the end. Not here to mention to embarrase myself once again on paper.

It was definitely better to sleep in the lower deck than upper deck. I had real good sleep.

Day 30 - crossing border day

Day 30 - time to leave. Feeling a bit bitter sweet today. When is time to leave that means is time to say good bye to this beautiful country. I still couldn't believe one month could pass so quickly. 5 weeks just gone by with a lot of good memories but also a lot of frustrations. I really enjoy the harmony in general in Lao. Yet, I did look forward to civilizations.

Before we left, mama from the mama's guesthouse where we were staying, she politely and cheerly tried to tie a little white string on our wrists. The white string represents good luck in the Lao tradition. It was nothing but a very warm wishing. I was touched.

Now was time to say good bye. We left Don Det, took a long tail back to where we came. From there we got to take a mini bus to the Thai Lao international bus station back to Thailand. The bus ride was quite an experience. There were 2 mini buses first dropped by the bus station then would take the others back to Pakse. Our mini bus broke down on the way. Me and Ben had no Lao money left (thought we would reach thailand in couple hours, we spent that all), no water, no food. It was very very hot on the road, we had no where to hide. The other mini bus dropped off the passengers to a very small grocery store nearby and headed back to pick us up to the same store while waiting for our bus to be fixed. It was very common that vehicles broke down here in Lao. It happened to me several times in this trip. It could take 15 mins to an hour. I should be more prepared.

We had to buy 2 cans of soda using our USD. As the locals don't know how what was the currency conversion rate, each costed us USD 1 dollar a can, which equivalent to a meal in most places in Lao. Doesn't matter. At least something cold and moist. That was what matters. We left the unfinished drinks on the road next to the minibus while we went checking out the fixing situation. Less than 5 mins, our drinks were gone. Then we saw the mother who sold us the sodas and her little boy were drinking our drinks!! bummer! They looked so cheerful enjoying our drinks looking at us yet a bit cheeky. I wanted to laugh but also was thinking "oh my Goodness! Are you joking me?"

The bus was finally fixed but it couldn't go too far. Therefore, the drivers suggested passengers going to Pakse would go into the fixed bus directly to Pakse and people going to the station including ourselves would go into the other bus directly to the station as the last Thai-Lao bus would leave soon. Here came the drama. Those travelers originally sitting in the "good" minibus were reluctant to swop. They gave the drivers so much shit and they just sat in the bus reluctant to move. The "broken" bus was fixed but just that it couldn't go too far worry that it might overheat.

After a long while of struggling, some passengers were willing to move to the other bus. Most of us squeezed into the "good" bus, but there was still one passenger couldn't fit in because the bus was fully overloaded. It would take those passengers another 30 mins to go Pakse in this bus because it had to drop us first to the bus station. The guy stood by the door was almost begging if anyone going to Pakse would offer to swop. Yet, no one moved and they kept telling the driver to drive. It was such a nightmare and what a scene to see these people so selfishly didn't give a concern to anybody else but themselves. There was a 50-year-old American traveler, who was going to Pakse, sitting next to the driver said "that is not my business. I don't give a shit". I couldn't be more disgusted by these people. At last, I offered to sit on the minibus floor between the driver seat and the passenger seat right on the hand brake in order to let the last passenger to get on this bus. Finally we could leave. It was alomst 45 mins of struggling and looking at these people. We are all civilized people. Where is the caring? Where is the generosity? That made me sick.

We managed to take the last Thai-Lao bus of today and reached Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand. We had to take a tuc tuc to the train station to go Bangkok. Before the overnight train, we had that bbq chicken nearby the train station. It was so good! All frustration went away.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Day 29 - The last night in Lao

Day 29 night - We had the biggest crowd of people having dinner in a traditional Lao restaurant nearby our guesthouse. We had people we met from cycling this afternoon, Kristina and Ari, also some spanish travelers who just checked in our guest house today. A big square table with around 20 people from different countries having food and drinks was indeed good fun. Yet, I was pretty exhausted from a day of cycling and swimming. So, i was quite looking forward to have an early nice sleep after dinner considering i would probably be woken up by the baby girl again tomorrow morning.

Our guesthouse had a shared terrance. I was trying to sleep, unfortunately my friends wanted to hang out at the terrance for a little longer and it was a good thing but to me, was just too loud trying to rest in the room. i was feeling uneasy and grumpy. I was too tired to join the chat yet, i couldn't sleep with all those noises and in this super hot no breeze no fan no air-con room.

I stayed in my bed trying to write, to read, to talk to myself, everything i could to divert my frustration. It was almost 130am... God, why it is so hard to get some nice sleep in this place? local people wake up early wakes travelers up and travelers stay up late keeping the locals sleepless. Sounds just cultural difference but aren't we all here interrupting each other's life but vice versa we enjoy having each other around?

2am, finally the world calmed down and back to this beautiful quiet village of what it should be. now i was awake but my mind finally calmed down. A day of grumpiness was gone, i could feel peace again.

Me and Ben were hanging out at the terrance, lying down in the hammocks swinging slowly and softly, enjoying the quietness of this place. It was a full moon tonight. The moon was just right on top of the big tree opposite to our guesthouse across the river. There were no other sound apart from the river flowing and our whispering. My last day in Lao wasn't started too well, was bit emotional and unbearable sometimes but after all, it was complete, satisfactory and peaceful just like this country gave me for this 30 days.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Still day 29 - a day in Don Khon

Day 29 afternoon - me and Ben hired 2 bicycles (no motor bikes for tourist is allowed in Si Pha Don) planning to cycle to Don Khon, the island where we weren't allowed to enter without paying yesterday. The rocky road was very bumpy all the though. We drove passed the bridge, through more rice fields, some ponds with several buffalos, ladies selling grilled bananas on the way, we saw the Mekong waterfall. It wasn't as big as the Khon Phapheng in Don Khong, but it was good enough to brighten my day. The sky was bright blue without a single cloud. I could feel how powerful the river was. It passes through the whole Lao and now reached Si Pha Don, almost the end of Lao n enters Cambodia.

We bumped into few friends we met last nite, Tim and Richard and some of their new met friends. We had an extremely long lunch as preparing meals is always slow and easy in Lao. By the time we finished lunch it was almost 4pm. We went to a "beach" or a "bay" of the Mekong for a swim. The beach size is like a bedroom size.

The most amazing thing about this "beach" is it has quick sand in the river bottom. If you stand still in the river, you would get slowly sucked into the riverbank. We were jumping on it like walking on a floating bed. I never experienced quick sand before, I felt like Indiana Jones... We didn't stay there for too long as there were buffalos trying to have a dip too. They were too anxious to see so many humans in the river, they backed off, but left some left overs in the river. It was time for us to leave.

Cycling back to our island was sunset time. Couldn't resist to slow down to take last few more pictures of this amazing purplish orange sunset.

Day 29 - What a morning


Day 29 - woke up in grumpiness. I was trying to stay in bed as long as i could to avoid washing my hair in cold shower. Wasn't quite the way I wanted as I was woken up by the baby grand daughter of the guesthouse owner at around 630a.m. Still trying to hide in my bed denying the reality. The noise could only go louder and louder... No other choice, i had to start my day with the cold shower (with a man yelling super loud next to our toilet). 2 very important things in my day I can't be messed up with. 1) my sleep and 2) my breakfast. Sometimes I have bad hair day... and today was my double messed up day.

I was trying my very best to hide my frustration. Guess I didn't put enough effort and all my friends could tell i was in a "dun mess with me" mood. Thought a nice breakfast would change everything. I couldn't expect much from fried eggs and baguette, so i ordered chicken sandwich. Before my sandwich came, i went washroom. Guess what, no water to wash hands or toilet paper. I have forgotten how many times I went toilet without toilet paper or clean water in Lao. But today it seemed like end of the world to me.

Sandwich came. "what is that?" we went to an indian restaurant and met that very friendly indian staff. The food, reminds me 7-11 sandwich. It was unfortunately awful to eat. I nearly cried. Why today? The fact that these couple of days would be my last few days in Lao magnified 100 times of my frustration. It was all good and enjoyable after all, yet, not today.

Me and Ben decided to cycle to Don Khon hoping some outdoor sport and the big waterfall would cheer up my day. em... would see.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

day 28 - island walk Don Det, Si Pha Don








Day 28 - Hot hot hot! no electricity on this island apart from 630pm to 11pm and sometime super early in the morning, when I could never early enough to enjoy. The guesthouse, Mama's we stayed has 4 rooms. The room isn't too big, very basic and rural. They are bungalows linked up together with a shared terrance. On the terrance, there are hammocks overseeing the Mekong. The sky was so blue, the island opposite to our guesthouse has a very big dark green chunky tree.

Had our breakfast, fried eggs and baguette of course. Everyone seemed pretty lazy in the morning chilling out at the hammock. Time is slow in Si Pha Don because you seriously have no better things to do on this island apart from lying on the hammock. After an hour of trying to kick everyone out from the hammock, 4 of us decided to take a walk around the island before lunch. I thought the island was small but i was wrong...

There are many guesthouses some are bungalows and some are made from concrete. Some really Lao and exotic, some are tacky as hell. Lonely planet says the Si Pha Don is turning into another Vang Vieng, where is becoming a hippy touristy place. Some bars do serve happy shakes. I had no serious opposition against tourism, as I believe to certain extent improve the local's life. The bottom line is, these places in Lao are very beautiful, simple and pure. It would be a shame that the environment and the people's culture got abused. Like I have no idea why we need those concrete hotels n tacky architecture here, which created huge contrast to the local hood.

We walked past the tourist area, we entered the local villages. There were so many children; swimming in the river, helping the grannies, walking the buffalos, playing along the road, they were everywhere. Brought a smile on my face. After the villages, we there were rice fields, and more rice fields for another 2 hours. I was exhausted walking under the heat. We couldn't walk back as kristina walked really fast n disappeared in the front. We couldn't leave her alone so we had to keep walking and tried to finish the round island walk. I wasn't a huge hiking under the strong sun fans. I was secretly a bit grumpy :P

We saw a bridge crossing the Mekong to another island, Don Khon. Don Khon looks more delux with appealing restaurants. Grass always greener in the opposite side. I gotta take back what i said about the touristy comment. I did very much want to have a nice meal and a cool pineapple shake there... BUT NO! we have to pay an entrance fee to this island. Capitalism!!! We walked back to where we came from the other side of the bridge feeling defeated. Went to the only restaurant near the bridge instead. Doesn't matter, the pineapple shake was just as delicious in this island :)

After hours and hours of walking, it was almost sunset when we finally finished the walk. We had dinner and went to a snooker bar for a drink. I once again got myself pretty drunk. But I had very good fun; trying to do spanish dancing with Ari and had our most amazing "where the banana gone?" banana pancake.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Day 27 - Champasak & Si Pha Don











Day 27 - Guess what for breakfast? regardless what were written on the menu... expect fried eggs n baguette in the south.

Today we went to Wat Phu, the ancient Khmer religious complex in Champasak. It is smaller compared with Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but the site layout that is unique in Khmer architecture, led to Unesco declaring Wat Phu complex a world heritage site. The stairs are unbelievably narrow and steep, that i could barely put my foot on it. The old tall trees are beautiful. They grow on both sides of the stairs and covered the sky like a tunnel. The site is big. We spent hours taking pictures and walking around.

After the walk, it was pass noon time, we got to catch the boat again and move on to Si Pha Don. I just realized we had to cross the Mekong again to the other side, where we came last night. Today we had the big boat. The weight of the big boat can carry was unbelievable. Considering it was a combination of 2 long tail like boats and a board. There was a shuttle bus on the boat with us... These boats on the Mekong are by far the most spontaneous vehicles i have seen.

We didn't know what the bus schedule was and it was getting late. So... we decided hitch hike. Guess what we got? A tractor! I couldn't believe a tractor will stop for us. 4 of us, 2 other travelers plus some locals all popped onto the back. If on a normal bus, it would take 3-4 hours to Si Pha Don, but now, i guess would be 6 hours, i guess? it wasn't the most comfortable seat, however, i was enjoying the open top tractor and the random kindness of the local people.

After an hour, we were transferred to a jumbo. It was packed. The first thing i saw at the end of the jumbo were 2 little piggies. Before we popped into it, there were at least 12 people in there, bags of rice and cements all over the floor. There were 4 of us plus another 2 travelers. We could barely squeeze ourselves into the back.

Another 2 hours of sardine experience, we finally arrived another pier. Got to cross the Mekong on a long tail boat to Don Det, one of the islands in Si Pha Don. I could only see under the moon light. After a day of traveling, we back to quietness and calmness surrounded by the Mekong and the sky.

We arrived pretty late, was about 10ish at night. Ben brought us to the place where he used to stay n knows the owner pretty well, called the Mama's. At night I couldn't see the island well, but I thought it was very small as we only walked like 3 mins from the pier and here we found the Mama's.

It was another long traveling day. I enjoyed my first time hitch hike. I like the unknown, the surprises, the random kindness and the flexibility. no rules, no boundaries.

Day 26 night - Marching to the south




Day 26 evening - 4 of us arrived Pakse and returned the bikes around 7pm. Me and Ben did pretty well in these 4 days, as opposed to a 6 days trip. In order to utilize our days in Lao (only 5 more days left), we decided to head further south tonight. To our final destination of Lao, Si Pha Don, we had to stop by Champasak for a night. We were struggling if we could make it tonight as the journey would first take 1-2 hours to the pier and the boat crossing the Mekong to Champasak stops at 9pm.

We finally managed to find a friendly jumbo driver who was willing to drive us there. It was almost a 2 hour drive in the dark. We drove pass the beer Lao factory, after a while it was complete black. No lights, no cars, no stars. Not soon later, it started raining. So heavily. The driver passed us a plastic sleeve to make our own shelter against the rain. Me and Ari have been holding up our hands for almost 45 mins. Feeling numbed. I could feel how clumsy I was. Getting wet, freezing cold wind blowing through the leaks to my underarm...

Luckily it stopped raining. Arrived the pier, no more big boats. Yet, we managed to find a small boat crossing the Mekong. it was actually a floating board with an engine technically. The Mekong is wide, but very calm. Safely, chillingly we made it to Champasak!

We jus realized the boat dropped us at a different pier, where was 2km away from town. It was dark. no hope to hire a tuk tuk. Guess walking with the bags was the only option... My bag was over 20kgs :( I just kept my mouth shut, walking, trying to catch up with the speed. Everyone seemed walking comfortably but my little legs were silently complaining.

Luckily luckily we bumped into a gathering restuarant with full of locals watching "king of Kung Fu". One of the locals who owner of a guesthouse, who offered us a ride. I was so over the moon happy.

here we were. Finally settled down. It was almost 1030pm. I had my fried rice, not too good, but hey, we were in Sekong this morning and now we made it to Champasak. A huge progress we made. Nothing seems impossible in this journey. We were all enjoying the not very good fried rice celebrating our successful day :)

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Day 4 - Tad Fan - the tallest waterfall






Day 4 (day 26 of the traveling) of the southern swing - Couldn't wake up too early in the morning as was feeling a bit hang over from last nite. Went to the same place for breakfast. We saw the menu got quite a variety of breakfast selections. I couldn't stop thinking what to fill up my belly. I have ordered an american breakfast n ben ordered his scramble eggs n baguette, of course our favorite lao coffee. I was so looking forward to some western touch. Ended up here came 2 identical breakfast, fried eggs cooked both sides and baguette. Emm... where were my beacon and sausages gone?

Was thinking to have lunch at Pakxong, however, the town wasn't too appealing and it was freezing cold up in the plateau. We decided to head towards the waterfalls. The first waterfall of today we went was Tad Niang. It was quite a pleasant ride as much as i enjoyed sitting at the back, I was happily adoring the views passed along us. We still at the plateau, we drove pass some coffee fields and more rice fields. After an hour drive, here we arrived Tad Niang. Thank God it wasn't difficult to find as I was a bit paranoid that we might have to experience that waterfall hunt like the last one. It was more touristy than I expected considering we saw less than 10 tourists in the past few days. There was a nice little garden along the river and for another 10 mins walk, there was the waterfall.

Around another 45 mins drive we arrived Tad Fan. It is another twin waterfall but seems bigger and further. It was like a valley and we could only see it from the opposite side of the waterfalls from a resort. Ben said he once been to the top of tad fan by trekking for 2 days in the jungle reaching the other side of the valley.

We had lunch at this fancy hotel although they made the worst pineapple shake. The grilled fish, curry chicken and the sticky rice however, was amazingly good. Nothing better than some hot delicious food after a freezing motor ride at the plateau.

The sun was hidden behind the cloud and it was raining heavily for a little while. I was cold. I could feel Ben, also now became the wind shield, was shaking. We were freezing in Lao today.

That's the end of our 4 days southern swing. When we arrived Pakse, it was evening. We got lost a bit in Pakse as it was "so different" from what we left here 4 days ago in the morning. I missed these 4 days. I had real good time looking at the rural side of Lao, close look at the waterfalls, being a bit adventurous and spent some good quiet time. Now, here we were, ready for our journey to Si Pha Don :)

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Day 3 - Sekong good food n spoon~






Day 3 (still the 25 day of our traveling) - After another 3-4 hours 100km/hr driving we arrived Sekong. It was almost night time. We found a very nice guesthouse with a private balcony, hot shower (yay!!) and air con. We were all quite exhausted from this afternoon's waterfall hunt n the long way fast n furious driving.

Heard there was a very good restaurant in town, with great variety of food, what would be better than food? We were so dedicated to find it out. Food was awesome good. There was short history of Laos and tips on the menu which was very interesting too. In Lao, there were 4 common order, laap (traditional lao dish), curry with beef / pork / chicken / buffalo, sweet n sour with the same 4 kinds of animals and pan fried of the same 4 kinds. I can't not mention sticky rice. My favorite of all.

Lao people finish their day early. Nothing more fun than playing cards as we were the only 4pp in town still awake after 11pm. We ordered a bag of Lao Lao (traditional Lao wine made by sticky rice, no taste but only feel the burning in the throat) n some soda. Here the war started. It was brutal to watch. We started playing spoon (totods los dias). It was brutal to watch because Ari lost most of the time and she did most of the drinking. After I had finished my 2nd shot, she had already 6. People enjoy watching people in pain sometimes. We had Lao Loa chocolate shake in flame. Let's get creative for the looser!!

Spoon is an awesome drinking game. the possibility of loosing is very small yet everyone probably lost at least once or twice under the accumulative system. So, conclusion is, either no play or prepared to be punished. Our days of Lao Lao started as the spoon war started here.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Day 3 of the southern swing - Nam Tok Katamtok hunt







Day 3 (our day 25 of traveling) - after saying goodbye to the monkey, first thing we went for internet. I was paranoid from living under the "lost the camera" shadow. So i got to, had to make sure my photos were saved in my hard drive. &(*&W*$_!!! why the computer couldn't read my hard drive?? that didn't help to soothe my paranoia at all. Couldn't change anything. Instead, had a very strong vietnam coffee n super fatty pork with rice for brunch to distract my frustration.

We started the day pretty late. It was almost 130pm when we started our day 3 journey. Off the very nicely paved road, we turned to a very bumpy rocky road to find our 4th waterfall, Katamtok. We drove a long way uphill to the mountain we saw 2 motobiks. 2 very untidy looking familiar human being climbing out from the bush. They were Ari and Kristina!!! We missed them in the morning n here found them in the bush! Haha! hilarious! apparently they were trying to follow the lonely planet trying to find the same waterfall as we were. From their facial expression n scratches on their feet, they haven't found it yet.

The lonely planet says the trail to the waterfall is only 25m walk but it is very easy to miss. We drove up n down the same road, stopped by many hidden trails. I went to 2 waterfall hunt trails (no luck of course) n decided to stay with the bike as there were 2 keeners (Ben and Ari) were quite happy to search for it into the jungle. We could hear the water running, could see the river but had no idea where the waterfall would be.

At last only Ben was trying almost 5-6 different trails, bumped into spiders, ants, creatures, plants, whatever you can think of in a jungle. Still no luck. Then here came Ari coming from no where with her bike waving at us. She found it. The trail was so NOT hidden! but instead of a forward or sideway hidden trail, it was a backward (like a U turn from the way you heading /|) wider than a road trail. We made it!! It was kind of big. 2 parallel waterfall went side by side. In the book, it says no data shows whether Katamtok is the tallest in Lao or Tat fen. anyway, it is tall. Whether it worth for 4 hours hunt... m... i wish it would be taller than our HK IFC.

Ben and I were supposed driving up the plateau to Tat Fan and Tat Nang, may be stay in Tat Fan for a nite. But we have spent 4 hours in searching the "hidden" trail. So, we decided to head back to Sekong with the girls and stay in Sekong for a night instead.

Day 2 - a nite at attapeu with Ari and Kristina




Still Day 2 (day 24 of our traveling) - we finally arrived Attapeu at night. The finding a guesthouse, checking in and finding a restaurant process was very smooth. I had a very good feeling about this town even thou it is called buffalo poo. We had Korean BBQ. Yay! It has been a very long time since I had something different. I was happily waiting for my food to be cooked. There was also Thai karaoke music as background. It was like our 80's. Awesome.

I had a very happy belly. There were only 2 tables left. One was us and the other one had 2 western girls opposite to ours. When there were not many people alike, we cherish everyone who is available to talk to us. Here we met Ari (Ariadna) from Barcelona (called Bar"th"elona) and Kristina from Toronto. Ari has golden brown hair who speaks sexy spanish accent english in a sandy voice. Kristina has really dark brown hair, very tan skin, a girl full of passion. At the beginning I was a bit tired to social while still enjoying the star light chill out moment. But soon I started to appreciate the opportunity to know these two girls. I had a feeling that we could talk anything and everything. How magical I had a very good feeling so quickly that I know right a way, these are good people with good heart and passion.

We left the restaurant as obviously the owner n his family were waiting for us to leave. We had a karaoke hunt but ended up it was some local's bed room. There was one little bar in the whole town still open after mid night. We spent hours talking n having beer. I wasn't a huge beer fun but I enjoyed the whole conversation, from traveling to home town story, from when internet was invented to when Armstrong went to the moon. It was our true pleasure to meet Ari and Kristina.

From then, we traveled in 4. A new 4pp traveling story started here. What's good for 4? card games!!!

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Day 2 - a nite would never forget




Nothing too exciting in Sekong, we decided to move on to another town Attapeu (means "buffalo poo" in Lao). It was already 530pm. driving to Attapeu would take at least 2 hours driving, which means we would be driving in the dark. It sounded very isolated n calm (if you understand what i mean...) I was over the moon excited n looking forward to the dark.

Driving 100km/hr in the sunset. The pink orange sky has blown me away. On the way, we saw local villagers bathing in the river preparing for the end of the day; color of the forest changed from bright light green to dark green. Weather was getting cooler. Everywhere was getting quieter and quieter. Finally everything around us became total darkness n complete quietness. I could only hear the bike and the wind blown on my face. Could only see the only head light from our bike. There were jus me, ben and the bike in this world. Surreal.

I looked up at the sky. I was stunned by what I saw. there was no moon light. No light. Thousands and thousands of stars were above me, surrounded me. The scene didn't change for a very long while. A straight road, could only see 5m ahead of us. driving into the dark hole overwhelmed by the stars both sides. I felt like we were living in a giant snowglobe. Apart from stars, I could see milky way, satellite moving and a shooting star.

This was definitely one of the most beautiful nite I ever had if not the very best one. The sky, the moment, has blown me away. I never ever been feeling so carefree. Nothing bothered me anymore, i was melted in the joy of freedom. I was so happy and greatful for what was in front of me, like in a dream. I asked Ben to stop by the road and jus to enjoy a quiet moment together. Everything was so perfect and so calm.

Thank you Ben. If it was not you having me sitting at the back I would never be able to have such mind blowing night.

Day 2 of the southern swing - Tat Lo, Thateng n Sekong










Day 2 (day 25 of our traveling) - was panicking for almost an hour in the morning to find the motobike key. Was throwing things around for no better things to do last nite. Anyway, got it n ready to go.

Drove few kilometers away here was the slippery walk to Tat Lo. Was stopped for 15 mins due to heavy rain. The weather was getting unpredictable and changed very quickly because we were in the forest and at the mountains. Was very cold when it rained. We were all hiding under some trees, had no time to worry that might increase our chance to hit by lightening. Short rain, we survived and we continued our journey.

The muddy slope was hell slippery. What made it more worrying was the slippery down hill slope leads you directly to the top of Tat Lo. So, if you fall, you fall with the waterfall.

Here was Tat Lo. Tall. I could barely see the waterfall as we were right a the edge of the top. Even thou pix taken from the top don't look as good as taken from further away it, these photos certainly life risking ones.

It would be nice to have picnic there. nice sun, water from the river coming to the waterfall at the top of the mountain, overlooking the Bolaven Plateau...

On the way to Sekong (planning that would be our 2nd destination), we had lunch at Thateng. The town was a small trade town with a small market and some local style restaurants. Couldn't order anything special as there was no menu. Can only have laap with sticky rice and noodle soup.

Arrived Sekong in a late afternoon. It was a bit of non event for us. It was a medium size town with a bigger market. The only thing there drew our attention was UXO Lao. Without a map, it took us an hour to find where it was even it was a very small town. While we jus about to give up, we bumped into it, which located in an under construction street.

UXO Lao is a local mines clearing organization in the country ran by the Lao people. It displayed different kinds of clusters, grenades and bombs hidden in Lao.

First stop Tat Lo







Day 1 (day 24 of traveling) of our southern swing on the road - arrived our first stop at Tat Lo. This place was our first retreat from hours of driving on the bike. There were only 2 of us were travelers. In fact, apart from the guesthouse owners, seemed we were the only 2 human being.

Before we checked out the town, we checked in a bungalow in lush gardens along the bank of the river, from Tat Hang to Tat Suong. Had my best lunch here. Coffee Lao, pineapple shake, chicken fried rice with fish source. Enjoying our delicious food in the natural garden next to a waterfall. Perfecto! Soooooo good. a taste of paradise.

We went for a hike along the rivers. Bumped into some local villagers, mostly kids n their mums, grand mums, bathing and swimming in river. We hiked to the end of the trail. Along the way, we saw some really wired looking flowers, 2 shy cows, millions of ants, very quick n skinny spiders and the hidden village (where we were too shy to walk n say hi).

Gotta take a nap after a long day driving n hiking. had our dinner in the garden again. Another best dinner I ever had. Curry beef, vermicelli salad and spring roll. It was raining occasionally outside. We sat under the roof enjoying our food while watching the geckos on the roof having their dinner too. The geckos here are american size. A lot of food supply! We were laughing so much. The geckos brought a lot of fun. And how amazing we both watched a thai TVC about geckos in different country n in a different time.

Had a short walk see if any chance we would bumped into any travelers. No sign of human beings. Walked back to our room, play cards n silly games. A very soft, mild and nice chilling day 1.

Apparently, Tat Lo, the real waterfall is 10 mins bike ride from the guesthouse. So, we will go n check it out tmr before we head to the next destination.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Southern Swing - Day 1 start from Pakse






Day 24 - sleeping like a log in the overnite bus. Arrived Pakse early in the morning at 7am. The south was gonna be the real thing. Places we planed to go would pass through jungles, waterfalls, living in bungalows, cold showers in our big southern swing.

We hired a motobike at Pakse n started our 4 days southern swing journey. never been so excited before. driving into the middle of no where. Pakse was the only major trading town in the south. Once we drove off from Pakse, there would be only 2 of us n the bike. Most of the time it was jus a straight road, surrounded by rice fields, coffee plants, papaya trees and all kinds of fruit trees. From time to time there were locals driving pass by us. Everyone was so generously friendly saying "sabydee" (hi!) n waving.

Our south swing started from Pakse - Tad Lo (Tad means waterfall) - Thateng - Sekong - Attapeu - Katamtok - Sekong - Tad Niang - Tad Fane - Pakxong - Pakse

I have been traveling to many places, this one is by far one of the most interesting, emotional, awakening travel journey.