Day 31 - If you remember what I wrote in the first few days, I mentioned Bangkok was never my favorite city. I took it back. I was so happy to be back to civilizations. So happy that I couldn't stop having a cheerful smile on my face. The smell of concrete, i missed it.
The first thing i did was to go to Ben's bed to apologize for my inappropriate behavior last night. And now, a fresh start in Bangkok. I had such different feeling about this city this time. I never had that appreciation about this city ever before. It was dirty, it was noisy and crowded. But today, i love it. I love its prosperity, I love its flexibility, I love it has everything you want.
Here was the end of my trip in Lao, Thailand here I came back to where I started. Me still being me, but now I had that wonderful story to tell people what I experienced. Lao is indeed a very beautiful country that we, all people, should cherish places like this so pure and so simple on our lonely planet.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Day 30 night - the night train to Bangkok
Still on day 30 - We were on this train back to Bangkok. I took the lower deck this time. Ben was keen to go to the food cart for a drink. So we did. There was music, there was good vibe, there were nice friendly people. We played some drinking games. Somehow I managed to get myself really drunk again. We had the Lao Lao and the Thai whisky. What an evil match.
There was the Thai undercover police sitting at the corner of the food cart. He looked pretty drunk to me. He and the staff on the train were really really friendly to everyone and everyone was having so much fun. I sat by the policeman's table, had some food and chatted with him. He was drinking that whisky. I was supposed to make him drunk thought would be more fun. But it was the other way round. He was drunk, i was beyond drunk.
It was good fun in the food cart but it was a bit nasty at the end. Not here to mention to embarrase myself once again on paper.
It was definitely better to sleep in the lower deck than upper deck. I had real good sleep.
There was the Thai undercover police sitting at the corner of the food cart. He looked pretty drunk to me. He and the staff on the train were really really friendly to everyone and everyone was having so much fun. I sat by the policeman's table, had some food and chatted with him. He was drinking that whisky. I was supposed to make him drunk thought would be more fun. But it was the other way round. He was drunk, i was beyond drunk.
It was good fun in the food cart but it was a bit nasty at the end. Not here to mention to embarrase myself once again on paper.
It was definitely better to sleep in the lower deck than upper deck. I had real good sleep.
Day 30 - crossing border day
Day 30 - time to leave. Feeling a bit bitter sweet today. When is time to leave that means is time to say good bye to this beautiful country. I still couldn't believe one month could pass so quickly. 5 weeks just gone by with a lot of good memories but also a lot of frustrations. I really enjoy the harmony in general in Lao. Yet, I did look forward to civilizations.
Before we left, mama from the mama's guesthouse where we were staying, she politely and cheerly tried to tie a little white string on our wrists. The white string represents good luck in the Lao tradition. It was nothing but a very warm wishing. I was touched.
Now was time to say good bye. We left Don Det, took a long tail back to where we came. From there we got to take a mini bus to the Thai Lao international bus station back to Thailand. The bus ride was quite an experience. There were 2 mini buses first dropped by the bus station then would take the others back to Pakse. Our mini bus broke down on the way. Me and Ben had no Lao money left (thought we would reach thailand in couple hours, we spent that all), no water, no food. It was very very hot on the road, we had no where to hide. The other mini bus dropped off the passengers to a very small grocery store nearby and headed back to pick us up to the same store while waiting for our bus to be fixed. It was very common that vehicles broke down here in Lao. It happened to me several times in this trip. It could take 15 mins to an hour. I should be more prepared.
We had to buy 2 cans of soda using our USD. As the locals don't know how what was the currency conversion rate, each costed us USD 1 dollar a can, which equivalent to a meal in most places in Lao. Doesn't matter. At least something cold and moist. That was what matters. We left the unfinished drinks on the road next to the minibus while we went checking out the fixing situation. Less than 5 mins, our drinks were gone. Then we saw the mother who sold us the sodas and her little boy were drinking our drinks!! bummer! They looked so cheerful enjoying our drinks looking at us yet a bit cheeky. I wanted to laugh but also was thinking "oh my Goodness! Are you joking me?"
The bus was finally fixed but it couldn't go too far. Therefore, the drivers suggested passengers going to Pakse would go into the fixed bus directly to Pakse and people going to the station including ourselves would go into the other bus directly to the station as the last Thai-Lao bus would leave soon. Here came the drama. Those travelers originally sitting in the "good" minibus were reluctant to swop. They gave the drivers so much shit and they just sat in the bus reluctant to move. The "broken" bus was fixed but just that it couldn't go too far worry that it might overheat.
After a long while of struggling, some passengers were willing to move to the other bus. Most of us squeezed into the "good" bus, but there was still one passenger couldn't fit in because the bus was fully overloaded. It would take those passengers another 30 mins to go Pakse in this bus because it had to drop us first to the bus station. The guy stood by the door was almost begging if anyone going to Pakse would offer to swop. Yet, no one moved and they kept telling the driver to drive. It was such a nightmare and what a scene to see these people so selfishly didn't give a concern to anybody else but themselves. There was a 50-year-old American traveler, who was going to Pakse, sitting next to the driver said "that is not my business. I don't give a shit". I couldn't be more disgusted by these people. At last, I offered to sit on the minibus floor between the driver seat and the passenger seat right on the hand brake in order to let the last passenger to get on this bus. Finally we could leave. It was alomst 45 mins of struggling and looking at these people. We are all civilized people. Where is the caring? Where is the generosity? That made me sick.
We managed to take the last Thai-Lao bus of today and reached Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand. We had to take a tuc tuc to the train station to go Bangkok. Before the overnight train, we had that bbq chicken nearby the train station. It was so good! All frustration went away.
Before we left, mama from the mama's guesthouse where we were staying, she politely and cheerly tried to tie a little white string on our wrists. The white string represents good luck in the Lao tradition. It was nothing but a very warm wishing. I was touched.
Now was time to say good bye. We left Don Det, took a long tail back to where we came. From there we got to take a mini bus to the Thai Lao international bus station back to Thailand. The bus ride was quite an experience. There were 2 mini buses first dropped by the bus station then would take the others back to Pakse. Our mini bus broke down on the way. Me and Ben had no Lao money left (thought we would reach thailand in couple hours, we spent that all), no water, no food. It was very very hot on the road, we had no where to hide. The other mini bus dropped off the passengers to a very small grocery store nearby and headed back to pick us up to the same store while waiting for our bus to be fixed. It was very common that vehicles broke down here in Lao. It happened to me several times in this trip. It could take 15 mins to an hour. I should be more prepared.
We had to buy 2 cans of soda using our USD. As the locals don't know how what was the currency conversion rate, each costed us USD 1 dollar a can, which equivalent to a meal in most places in Lao. Doesn't matter. At least something cold and moist. That was what matters. We left the unfinished drinks on the road next to the minibus while we went checking out the fixing situation. Less than 5 mins, our drinks were gone. Then we saw the mother who sold us the sodas and her little boy were drinking our drinks!! bummer! They looked so cheerful enjoying our drinks looking at us yet a bit cheeky. I wanted to laugh but also was thinking "oh my Goodness! Are you joking me?"
The bus was finally fixed but it couldn't go too far. Therefore, the drivers suggested passengers going to Pakse would go into the fixed bus directly to Pakse and people going to the station including ourselves would go into the other bus directly to the station as the last Thai-Lao bus would leave soon. Here came the drama. Those travelers originally sitting in the "good" minibus were reluctant to swop. They gave the drivers so much shit and they just sat in the bus reluctant to move. The "broken" bus was fixed but just that it couldn't go too far worry that it might overheat.
After a long while of struggling, some passengers were willing to move to the other bus. Most of us squeezed into the "good" bus, but there was still one passenger couldn't fit in because the bus was fully overloaded. It would take those passengers another 30 mins to go Pakse in this bus because it had to drop us first to the bus station. The guy stood by the door was almost begging if anyone going to Pakse would offer to swop. Yet, no one moved and they kept telling the driver to drive. It was such a nightmare and what a scene to see these people so selfishly didn't give a concern to anybody else but themselves. There was a 50-year-old American traveler, who was going to Pakse, sitting next to the driver said "that is not my business. I don't give a shit". I couldn't be more disgusted by these people. At last, I offered to sit on the minibus floor between the driver seat and the passenger seat right on the hand brake in order to let the last passenger to get on this bus. Finally we could leave. It was alomst 45 mins of struggling and looking at these people. We are all civilized people. Where is the caring? Where is the generosity? That made me sick.
We managed to take the last Thai-Lao bus of today and reached Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand. We had to take a tuc tuc to the train station to go Bangkok. Before the overnight train, we had that bbq chicken nearby the train station. It was so good! All frustration went away.
Friday, October 3, 2008
Day 29 - The last night in Lao
Day 29 night - We had the biggest crowd of people having dinner in a traditional Lao restaurant nearby our guesthouse. We had people we met from cycling this afternoon, Kristina and Ari, also some spanish travelers who just checked in our guest house today. A big square table with around 20 people from different countries having food and drinks was indeed good fun. Yet, I was pretty exhausted from a day of cycling and swimming. So, i was quite looking forward to have an early nice sleep after dinner considering i would probably be woken up by the baby girl again tomorrow morning.
Our guesthouse had a shared terrance. I was trying to sleep, unfortunately my friends wanted to hang out at the terrance for a little longer and it was a good thing but to me, was just too loud trying to rest in the room. i was feeling uneasy and grumpy. I was too tired to join the chat yet, i couldn't sleep with all those noises and in this super hot no breeze no fan no air-con room.
I stayed in my bed trying to write, to read, to talk to myself, everything i could to divert my frustration. It was almost 130am... God, why it is so hard to get some nice sleep in this place? local people wake up early wakes travelers up and travelers stay up late keeping the locals sleepless. Sounds just cultural difference but aren't we all here interrupting each other's life but vice versa we enjoy having each other around?
2am, finally the world calmed down and back to this beautiful quiet village of what it should be. now i was awake but my mind finally calmed down. A day of grumpiness was gone, i could feel peace again.
Me and Ben were hanging out at the terrance, lying down in the hammocks swinging slowly and softly, enjoying the quietness of this place. It was a full moon tonight. The moon was just right on top of the big tree opposite to our guesthouse across the river. There were no other sound apart from the river flowing and our whispering. My last day in Lao wasn't started too well, was bit emotional and unbearable sometimes but after all, it was complete, satisfactory and peaceful just like this country gave me for this 30 days.
Our guesthouse had a shared terrance. I was trying to sleep, unfortunately my friends wanted to hang out at the terrance for a little longer and it was a good thing but to me, was just too loud trying to rest in the room. i was feeling uneasy and grumpy. I was too tired to join the chat yet, i couldn't sleep with all those noises and in this super hot no breeze no fan no air-con room.
I stayed in my bed trying to write, to read, to talk to myself, everything i could to divert my frustration. It was almost 130am... God, why it is so hard to get some nice sleep in this place? local people wake up early wakes travelers up and travelers stay up late keeping the locals sleepless. Sounds just cultural difference but aren't we all here interrupting each other's life but vice versa we enjoy having each other around?
2am, finally the world calmed down and back to this beautiful quiet village of what it should be. now i was awake but my mind finally calmed down. A day of grumpiness was gone, i could feel peace again.
Me and Ben were hanging out at the terrance, lying down in the hammocks swinging slowly and softly, enjoying the quietness of this place. It was a full moon tonight. The moon was just right on top of the big tree opposite to our guesthouse across the river. There were no other sound apart from the river flowing and our whispering. My last day in Lao wasn't started too well, was bit emotional and unbearable sometimes but after all, it was complete, satisfactory and peaceful just like this country gave me for this 30 days.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Still day 29 - a day in Don Khon
Day 29 afternoon - me and Ben hired 2 bicycles (no motor bikes for tourist is allowed in Si Pha Don) planning to cycle to Don Khon, the island where we weren't allowed to enter without paying yesterday. The rocky road was very bumpy all the though. We drove passed the bridge, through more rice fields, some ponds with several buffalos, ladies selling grilled bananas on the way, we saw the Mekong waterfall. It wasn't as big as the Khon Phapheng in Don Khong, but it was good enough to brighten my day. The sky was bright blue without a single cloud. I could feel how powerful the river was. It passes through the whole Lao and now reached Si Pha Don, almost the end of Lao n enters Cambodia.
We bumped into few friends we met last nite, Tim and Richard and some of their new met friends. We had an extremely long lunch as preparing meals is always slow and easy in Lao. By the time we finished lunch it was almost 4pm. We went to a "beach" or a "bay" of the Mekong for a swim. The beach size is like a bedroom size.
The most amazing thing about this "beach" is it has quick sand in the river bottom. If you stand still in the river, you would get slowly sucked into the riverbank. We were jumping on it like walking on a floating bed. I never experienced quick sand before, I felt like Indiana Jones... We didn't stay there for too long as there were buffalos trying to have a dip too. They were too anxious to see so many humans in the river, they backed off, but left some left overs in the river. It was time for us to leave.
Cycling back to our island was sunset time. Couldn't resist to slow down to take last few more pictures of this amazing purplish orange sunset.
We bumped into few friends we met last nite, Tim and Richard and some of their new met friends. We had an extremely long lunch as preparing meals is always slow and easy in Lao. By the time we finished lunch it was almost 4pm. We went to a "beach" or a "bay" of the Mekong for a swim. The beach size is like a bedroom size.
The most amazing thing about this "beach" is it has quick sand in the river bottom. If you stand still in the river, you would get slowly sucked into the riverbank. We were jumping on it like walking on a floating bed. I never experienced quick sand before, I felt like Indiana Jones... We didn't stay there for too long as there were buffalos trying to have a dip too. They were too anxious to see so many humans in the river, they backed off, but left some left overs in the river. It was time for us to leave.
Cycling back to our island was sunset time. Couldn't resist to slow down to take last few more pictures of this amazing purplish orange sunset.
Day 29 - What a morning
Day 29 - woke up in grumpiness. I was trying to stay in bed as long as i could to avoid washing my hair in cold shower. Wasn't quite the way I wanted as I was woken up by the baby grand daughter of the guesthouse owner at around 630a.m. Still trying to hide in my bed denying the reality. The noise could only go louder and louder... No other choice, i had to start my day with the cold shower (with a man yelling super loud next to our toilet). 2 very important things in my day I can't be messed up with. 1) my sleep and 2) my breakfast. Sometimes I have bad hair day... and today was my double messed up day.
I was trying my very best to hide my frustration. Guess I didn't put enough effort and all my friends could tell i was in a "dun mess with me" mood. Thought a nice breakfast would change everything. I couldn't expect much from fried eggs and baguette, so i ordered chicken sandwich. Before my sandwich came, i went washroom. Guess what, no water to wash hands or toilet paper. I have forgotten how many times I went toilet without toilet paper or clean water in Lao. But today it seemed like end of the world to me.
Sandwich came. "what is that?" we went to an indian restaurant and met that very friendly indian staff. The food, reminds me 7-11 sandwich. It was unfortunately awful to eat. I nearly cried. Why today? The fact that these couple of days would be my last few days in Lao magnified 100 times of my frustration. It was all good and enjoyable after all, yet, not today.
Me and Ben decided to cycle to Don Khon hoping some outdoor sport and the big waterfall would cheer up my day. em... would see.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
day 28 - island walk Don Det, Si Pha Don
Day 28 - Hot hot hot! no electricity on this island apart from 630pm to 11pm and sometime super early in the morning, when I could never early enough to enjoy. The guesthouse, Mama's we stayed has 4 rooms. The room isn't too big, very basic and rural. They are bungalows linked up together with a shared terrance. On the terrance, there are hammocks overseeing the Mekong. The sky was so blue, the island opposite to our guesthouse has a very big dark green chunky tree.
Had our breakfast, fried eggs and baguette of course. Everyone seemed pretty lazy in the morning chilling out at the hammock. Time is slow in Si Pha Don because you seriously have no better things to do on this island apart from lying on the hammock. After an hour of trying to kick everyone out from the hammock, 4 of us decided to take a walk around the island before lunch. I thought the island was small but i was wrong...
There are many guesthouses some are bungalows and some are made from concrete. Some really Lao and exotic, some are tacky as hell. Lonely planet says the Si Pha Don is turning into another Vang Vieng, where is becoming a hippy touristy place. Some bars do serve happy shakes. I had no serious opposition against tourism, as I believe to certain extent improve the local's life. The bottom line is, these places in Lao are very beautiful, simple and pure. It would be a shame that the environment and the people's culture got abused. Like I have no idea why we need those concrete hotels n tacky architecture here, which created huge contrast to the local hood.
We walked past the tourist area, we entered the local villages. There were so many children; swimming in the river, helping the grannies, walking the buffalos, playing along the road, they were everywhere. Brought a smile on my face. After the villages, we there were rice fields, and more rice fields for another 2 hours. I was exhausted walking under the heat. We couldn't walk back as kristina walked really fast n disappeared in the front. We couldn't leave her alone so we had to keep walking and tried to finish the round island walk. I wasn't a huge hiking under the strong sun fans. I was secretly a bit grumpy :P
We saw a bridge crossing the Mekong to another island, Don Khon. Don Khon looks more delux with appealing restaurants. Grass always greener in the opposite side. I gotta take back what i said about the touristy comment. I did very much want to have a nice meal and a cool pineapple shake there... BUT NO! we have to pay an entrance fee to this island. Capitalism!!! We walked back to where we came from the other side of the bridge feeling defeated. Went to the only restaurant near the bridge instead. Doesn't matter, the pineapple shake was just as delicious in this island :)
After hours and hours of walking, it was almost sunset when we finally finished the walk. We had dinner and went to a snooker bar for a drink. I once again got myself pretty drunk. But I had very good fun; trying to do spanish dancing with Ari and had our most amazing "where the banana gone?" banana pancake.
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